Cedar fences typically last fifteen to twenty-five years with stain applied every two to three years. Treated pine lasts fifteen to twenty years with regular sealing, and cypress eighteen to twenty-five years. Without maintenance, expect ten to fifteen years on most species before significant board replacement is needed. The concrete-set posts and quality fasteners we use are what carry the fence to the long end of that range.

Species is the first fork in the road. Treated pine is the value build, cedar is the middle and what most Little Rock yards get, and cypress sits at the top. Height matters next, because a six-foot fence is more picket and heavier rails than a four-foot one. Then it is footage, gate count, and terrain, since a sloped or rocky line means more post-setting labor. Custom picket profiles, decorative caps, and stain on install day are each their own line. We use American lumber, much of it milled here in Arkansas, and we write the whole scope down before we start. Call (501) 626-7024.

The City of Little Rock requires permits for fences over six feet tall, fences in front yards, and fences in historic districts such as Quapaw and MacArthur Park. Standard six-foot privacy fences in side and rear yards typically do not require a permit. We pull whatever the project needs and handle the coordination.

Yes. Tear-out and disposal of the old fence is included in our quote. We haul away the old materials and clean up the old post holes before setting the new posts, so the site is ready for a clean installation.

Yes. Bring photos or take us out to look at it. Most picket profiles, post styles, and rail patterns are reproducible. A color match on a weathered fence is harder, but a fresh stain to a target tone usually gets close enough that the two fences read as a set.

Yes. Install-day staining in a semi-transparent or solid color is offered as part of the package, and we also schedule follow-up restain visits every two to three years. Sealing the wood on a dry install day, before Little Rock humidity has a chance to reach the boards, is the best possible start for a wood fence and meaningfully extends how long it holds its color and resists warping.

We set posts in concrete on eight-inch sonotube footings to about thirty-six inches, with a gravel base under each post for drainage. That depth reaches below the layer where Little Rock’s expansive clay does most of its seasonal swelling and shrinking, which is what shoves a shallow post out of plumb over a few years. On the wetter, lower lots near the river bottoms we go deeper still. The tamped-dirt jobs you see leaning down the street failed because the post never got below the ground that moves.

Yes. Shadowbox and board-on-board styles look finished from both sides, so there is no ugly rail-and-post face for one neighbor to look at, and they satisfy the HOA rules in many Little Rock subdivisions that require a good-neighbor face toward the street or the adjoining lot. The overlapping boards also cut the wind load on exposed Pulaski County lots, which extends the life of the fence. If your neighborhood has a shared-fence rule or you just want to keep the peace over the fence line, this is usually the style we point you toward.